Burdastyle Ute Sew-Along: Step 7 and Step 8

By Tiffany - Sunday, April 21, 2013

Here we go with more Burdastyle Ute sewing. We are now at Step 7: finishing the collar. Step 8 is basically the same, but for the tie collar (Variation B).

Now you can iron the button band along the fold lines. My polka dots made this part easy, since I could just follow along a line of dots.

Also, iron the bias strip in half with right side out as instructed.

The small pictures in the instructions are hard to see. So, where it says to "Along the fold line of the facing, turn outside and pin onto the collar", this is what it should look like.

The button band is folded to the outside of the shirt. Then, the bias strip is pinned with the rough edges at the edge of the neckline.

I didn't take a picture of it, but I went back afterwards and trimmed my bias strip so that it would end near the middle of the button band. You may want to cut notches in your bias strip to help line it up around the round neckline.

Then you can sew it at the seam allowance. What is is the seam allowance, you ask? I'm not 100% sure myself. The instructions are missing that measurement (it just looks like gobbledy-goop). But, since we trimmed 1/4" (1cm) off of the neckline in the previous step and the original seam allowance was 5/8", I think the new seam allowance is 3/8".

Once that is done, "trim the allowances and snip in", as the instructions say. (At least THAT makes sense).

Trim and snip!

Fold the button band right side out and pine the bias strip down inside the neckline.

Are 3/8" seam allowance works with the next part, since we have about 3/8" of bias strip to fold down and the instructions say to stitch 1/4" along the collar seam.

Now, I'm not going to pretend that my sewing goes flawlessly and that I never have problems. There is always at least one part where I get stuck and feel like throwing my sewing machine out the window. This is that part for me (at least so far, I might have more problems yet to come).

Usually, my problems are tension related. My thread makes a mess or I skip stitches. If that happens to you, try changing the needle and/or playing with your tension adjustments on a scrap piece of fabric.

What happened to me at this step is that my machine refused to sew properly. It would sew fine for the first couple of stitches and then start skipping stitches like crazy. Fabric was also being fed unevenly and started to bunch up. I did not have this problem while sewing the first shirt, but that had thinner fabric.

Not picture: Tiffany sobbing in the corner

I tried sewing on a piece of fabric while matching the uneven thickness of the shirt and it would sew fine without any problems. Then, I would go back to my shirt and it just wouldn't work. Something about the thickness and the fact that I was sewing on a curve just made everything a mess. I tried playing with the tension, using a zipper foot, sewing with half of the foot resting on a piece of piping, but none of that worked!

What eventually worked was balancing the foot on the highest, thickest part, with the needle in the left position and while using a new, thicker needle.

I also increased my stitch length and went nice and slow. It (mostly) worked - I only skipped two stitches, which I then hand sewed into place. If that didn't work, I probably would have given up and sewed it all by hand.

Finally, a finished collar!

Sewing is funny. It can either take almost no time to do something or the smallest issue can put you back a few hours.

Well, that's it for Step 7. I'm skipping Step 8, since that is for Variation B (the tie collar). Step 9 is coming soon...

Update: I just double checked, and the bottom of Step 8 has a few things for both Variation A and B of the shirt. Bacially, if you haven't already, it tells you to 1) sew the side seams, 2) sewing the button band (facing), and 3) sew the hem. Go ahead and sew the button band. You might want to hold off of the rest in case sewing in the sleeves effects the fit (eg. and you need to let in or out the side seams).

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  1. Yesss I know what you mean about it taking five minutes or forever. Sorry to hear of the issues with the thread - I hate when stuff like that happens, but it looks like this shirt is going well so far! Can't wait to see the rest of it!

    1. Thanks Kristin. I just saw your dress on your blg - I'm glad to see your sewing is going so well. :)

    2. Thank you, my sewing goes slowly and it's easy to hide mistakes in pictures. ;-) I wrote more on my site, but here's the generic blurb: I've nominated you for a Liebster Award. I hope you'll play along and share your favourite up and coming blogs. http://sewclassic.blogspot.com/2013/05/first-day-of-mmm-and-liebster-award.html

    3. ooohhh! Thank you! I'll definitely ckeck it out. :)